Pet Freebies UK- free stuff for pets

Pet Rats

Makes some people squirm I know but people keep rats as pets. My friend does - he's kept them in the past and has just got some new ones

My younger sister on the other hand has never kept pet rats, but keeps mice, gerbils, chinchillas - so I spose they're not to everyones taste

Rat Freebies

Rat wallpaper and desktop themes for free at Wererat site

Rat paws screensaver

Free rat care leaflet

Free rat info on pdsa site - includes free to print rat record card

For great pet rat photos - this site has some wickedly cute rat pics.

The following document is intended as common-sense advice for owners of
domesticated Rattus norweigicus. The authors are not veterinary
professionals. Comments and questions welcome at antonia.swierzy@bbc.co.uk

Pet Rat Information Sheet
By
Antonia Swierzy and Angela Horn

The purpose of this leaflet is to help readers keep healthy, happy pet
rats. Its main focus is upon animal welfare - what owners can do to give
their rats happy lives, and thus make them better pets. Please bear in mind
that good breeders and good pet shops put a lot of time and effort into
breeding and socialising pet rats; they will only breed from good quality,
healthy, friendly animals and will allow the mother to rest between
litters. The babies will have been regularly handled from a young age -
before their eyes have opened - and should be confident in human company by
the time they are ready to leave home, not hiding away or urinating in fear
when they are picked up. They will usually be over six weeks old, and
certainly no younger than five weeks; the breeder or pet shop should be
able to tell you their date of birth. They will have kept male and female
rats separate from the age of five weeks, because females can become
pregnant even at this age. Good breeders and good pet shops will certainly
care about the welfare of their animals, and will want to make sure that
you have suitable housing and know how to keep rats, before they will let
you buy any from them.

Rats as Pets
Rats are clean, intelligent, affectionate animals that bond to their human
companions in much the same way that dogs do, and with the right care
should provide a comparable level of companionship. They are the same
species as the wild brown rat, Rattus norvigicus, but have been selectively
bred for looks and temperament for at least the last century and are now
quite different in temperament from their
ancestors. Rats become very attached to their owners, make playful,
sensitive pets, and can be taught to come by name and learn a variety of
tricks. Unlike many other rodents, however, rats are a fairly high
maintenance pet. They need at least an hour's playtime outside their cage
every day, and because they are much more intelligent than many other small
animals, can suffer greatly if not given enough attention, free-range time,
and environmental stimulation. While rats are extremely rewarding pets and
will repay any attention and affection you give them a thousand fold, they
may not be suitable for everyone; if you cannot guarantee to give your
rats at least an hour of quality time every day, then perhaps a lower
maintenance pet. would be more suitable.

The more attention you give your new rats when you first get them home, the
sooner they will get used to your voice and your smell and begin to make
friends with you. Handle your rats as much as possible, whether they seem
to like it or not at first -- they will soon learn to enjoy your company.
Unless a rat is very nervous or unwell, you cannot give it too much
attention or handling. One good way of getting your rats used to you is to
let them ride around the house on your shoulder or inside your sweater.
Rats should not be picked up by the tail -- they don't like it, and it can
cause injury. It is best to lift your rats by placing one or both hands
under the chest, behind the front legs -- but be careful not to squeeze!
Once your rats are used to you they will very likely run out of their cage
and up your
arm. Many rats will come when called even if they are roaming free range.
Like all small animals they dislike loud noises and rough handling, so it
is very important that children learn to handle rats
carefully under close supervision; a pet rat should never bite, but when
scared by rough handling even the gentlest pet may try to defend itself.

Rat Safety
Like many animals, rats can be destructive if left unsupervised for long
periods of time. You should make sure you know where your rats are while
they roam free range, and rat-proof any room that they are let loose in.
Rat- proofing requires a little common sense, but need not become a major
DIY project. Many rats will scent-mark 'their' territory with tiny drops
of urine and you may want to keep a
'rat-blanket' to throw over soft furnishings when the rats are out.
Electrical cords that cannot be kept out of reach of small teeth should be
covered with aquarium tubing which can be bought cheaply from most
pet-shops; it is easiest to slit the tubing along its length and feed the
flex into it. Rats will also chew books, clothes, pencils and other items;
they are also adept at knocking things over. Breakables and valuable
possessions should be put out of harm's reach while your rats are out and
about. Make sure that windows and doors are closed, and that there are no
possible escape routes. Rats can fit through tiny holes, so you should
check for cracks along skirting boards, between floor-boards etc. It is
strongly advised that you do not wear shoes while your rats roam
free-range. Some house plants can be poisonous for animals, so it is
probably most sensible to keep all plants away from your rats.

Does and Bucks
It is very easy to tell the difference between male and female rats. Males
have large prominent testicles which are visible under the tail from well
before the age when they are ready to leave their mother. They can draw
their testicles up inside them if they are afraid, but will not do this for
a long period of time. A good rat breeder or staff at a good pet shop will
find it easy to tell which sex baby rats are.

Both male and female rats make great companion animals, although they have
different characteristics. Does (females) are smaller, more lithe and more
active than Bucks (males). Does have a smoother coat (unless they are
rexes, in which case they have a less curly coat); they have almost no
discernible smell and rarely scent-mark territory. Approximately once every
five days a doe will be in heat for around twelve hours. This usually
happens in the evening. You will notice that your doe is in heat by changes
in her behaviour: she will be jumpy, skittish, and may perform a mating
'dance' by freezing, arching her back and fluttering her ears if you tickle
her haunches. Bucks are larger and more laid-back than does. Their coat is
coarser and has a slight musky smell to it. While they are as affectionate
as does, they are much lazier, and when left free-range will often curl up
in a corner or on your lap. Some bucks scent mark almost everything that
they run into -- including their human companions -- but this is not as
disgusting as it sounds as the 'scent' is only a few drops of urine and
does not smell strongly. Very rarely, a male may become overly aggressive
towards his cage mate(s) or hard to handle when he reaches 4-5 months of
age (and sometimes later) if his levels of male hormones are too high. This
is not a usual occurrence and should not be confused with the normal rough
and tumble of adolescent rats. A rat suffering from an excess of male
hormones will display "fight or flight" behaviour almost constantly: he
will puff up his fur, hiss and huff at other rats and people, and may
attack or bite cage-mates or his owners. This condition can usually be
cured by having the rat neutered, and his hormonal levels and behaviour
will soon return to normal. If you must have a buck neutered, make sure
that you use a vet who has done this operation on rats before: rats have an
internal muscular structure unlike that of dogs and cats, and a slightly
different procedure must be used (the inguinal canal must be stitched
closed). Neutering normally costs about £30 (at time of writing -- 1996).
The National Fancy Rat Society has a list of vets that have experience in
dealing with rats.

Growth and Lifespan
Rats are born after 21-23 days gestation. Rats have poor eyesight but their
senses of hearing and smell are many times more sensitive than ours. Baby
rats' eyes open when they are between 13-16 days old,
although they can hear and smell a few days after birth. Rats normally
leave their litter at 6 weeks of age; they are weaned from their mother at
4-5 weeks, but benefit greatly from staying with their
litter and being socialised until 6 weeks, since the period from 2-6 weeks
of age is a crucial stage in the rat's mental and social development. It is
important that rats are allowed to stay with their litter until this age,
and the National Fancy Rat Society does not allow baby rats to be sold
before they are six weeks old. Rats normally become fertile around 5 weeks
of age, but does have been known to get pregnant as young as 3 1/2 weeks!
(This is only an issue if young does are introduced to older males: young
does are not at risk of being impregnated by their litter-brothers until
after 5 weeks of age). Rats grow rapidly until they reach 12-14 weeks.
After this, the growth slows down but many rats continue to fill out until
they reach six months of age. Adult bucks usually weigh 400-600g, does
around 200-400g. As long as a rat has been handled as a youngster, it will
bond to you no matter how old it is when you first get it. Rats usually
live for between two and three years; a big cage, other rats for company, a
healthy diet, and lots of exercise is the best way of making sure that your
rats have a long life.

Social Life: Rats Need Company
Rats are highly intelligent, social animals, and although they enjoy the
companionship of humans, they thrive in -- and need -- the company of
their own species. Rats should never live alone and ideally should be kept
in groups of two or more of the same sex. It is unfair and cruel to deprive
any social animal of the company of its own species. Rats enjoy grooming
each other, curling up to sleep together,
and sometimes even fighting. It is usual for rats to fight occasionally,
especially when they are 'teenagers' between 3 and 6 months old; do not
worry about this unless you see serious injuries, as the rats are just
establishing a pecking order.

No matter how much time you can spend with your rat, you will never be able
to replace the attentions of his own species. Do not forget that a rat's
most active time is in the middle if the night, when most rat owners are
unlikely to be able to provide their pet with companionship. One fear
expressed by potential rat-owners is that if they get more than one rat,
the animals will bond together and be less
tame as a result. The opposite is usually the case, as solitary rats can
easily become clingy, introverted and neurotic. Rats kept in pairs or
groups are happier, more confident, and no more difficult to
tame. There is, in fact, no valid argument for keeping rats alone, but
many good reasons to let them live in single-sex pairs or groups: two rats
are as easy to look after as one, a cage that is big enough
for one rat is big enough for a pair, two rats are much happier and live
longer than single rats -- and they're many times more interesting to
watch!!

It is easiest to introduce rats to their companions when they are young
(preferably under 10 weeks old). When introducing adult rats, first clean
out the cage thoroughly to remove territorial scents from
the resident rat. Dab both rats with perfume or vanilla essence (to
disguise their smells) and introduce them on neutral territory, not in a
cage which one recognises as its own. There will usually be some
fighting for the first few days after they are introduced. This is not
usually serious, but to avoid it you may prefer to introduce them
gradually, letting them first just sniff each other and then work up
to putting them in the same cage over about a week. It is harder to
introduce adult male rats to other adult males, and such introductions need
to be done over several weeks. However, it is usually fairly easy to
introduce an adult male to a very young baby male.

While it is possible to sex baby rats from birth with a little practice, it
is impossible to confuse does and bucks from four weeks onwards, as by this
age the male's testicles have dropped and are clearly apparent. While baby
rats are weaned before five weeks of age, they should not leave their
litter until they are at least six weeks old. Any pet shop or breeder who
claims that their baby rats cannot be
definitely sexed yet is selling them far too young, does not have the
animals' best interests at heart, and should be avoided at all costs.

Housing
Unlike rabbits and guinea pigs, domesticated rats are not hardy in cold
weather and as such must live indoors. For this reason they need a cage
rather than just a hutch. Your rats will spend most of their
lives in a cage, and because they are such intelligent, active animals, it
is a shame to keep them in a small space. There is no such thing as a cage
that is 'too big' for pet rats -- giving your animals
more space is an easy way to make their lives more interesting. As a bare
minimum, the floor-space should be at least 24" long and 12" wide, but we
would stress that this is the minimum acceptable cage size and most pet
owners want to give their pets more than the minimum. It is really
important to check the dimensions of any cage before you buy; it can be
hard to guess accurately, and a few inches of space can make a lot of
difference to animals as small as rats.

Wire cages are by far the best housing for rats. In addition to providing
good ventilation they are a ready-made rat climbing-frame, and can be
easily converted into a rat adventure playground with a
little imaginative use of ropes, ladders, tree branches, shelves, hammocks,
and flowerpots attached to the sides. In addition to a minimum of two
square feet of floor-space, you should try to get a nice tall cage for your
rats: they love to climb and you can maximise the available space by making
shelves. The simplest shelves are melamine boards which can be slid between
the bars of the cage; they
are convenient to remove and can be wiped down. Fer-Plast and other
companies make excellent, reasonably priced 'parrot' cages (such as the
Fer-Plast Sonia 24" long x 15" wide x 25" high or the Immac Gabbie Dora )
that are suitable for rats -- although it is worth shopping around as
prices can vary by as much as 100%; animal exhibitions are a great place to
get large cages at wholesale prices. Used ads papers (such as LOOT in
London) and classified ads are also good places to find cheap cages; make
sure that you disinfect and rinse any second-hand cage thoroughly to kill
any bacteria that may be living in it. A Hamster cage, no matter how
'large' is not suitable for adult rats: even the three-story
'hamster-palaces' do not have enough floor space or climbing opportunities.
Some wire cages made especially for ferrets, chinchillas, or laboratory
use, have wire floors with a pan below to catch droppings. Do not be
tempted by the ease with which these can be cleaned, nor by their
elimination of the need for a 'litter' for the floor: wire cages can, and
often do, cause a painful and incurable condition called bumblefoot in
rats. Bumblefoot, a severe irritation and swelling of the hocks, makes it
painful and difficult for rats to walk, and cannot be cured. If you do buy
a cage with a wire floor, remove the wire floor and set the cage in the
litter tray. Wire shelves can (and should) be easily covered with
off-cuts of linoleum. In addition to climbing opportunities and good
ventilation, a cage allows you to interact with your rats -- you can feed
and stroke them through the bars. Rats have keen senses of
hearing and of smell; a cage provides extra stimulation as your rats can
pick up new smells and sounds which they find interesting.

An aquarium can be a sound second option if, for some reason, a cage is not
suitable or available. Aquariums offer less climbing opportunities, but
this can be overcome with a little imagination and
the use of some of the items listed above. However, aquariums can have poor
ventilation, so it is important to make sure that the lid allows plenty of
air to circulate (a fan close to the tank is recommended), and that the
tank is kept scrupulously clean: Ammonia build-up from urine can irritate
rats' respiratory tracts. Aquariums do have the advantage of keeping the
rats bedding, food etc. in their home and away from your furniture and
carpets, and they provide a measure of security for rats who live in
cat-owning households (although make sure that the lid is cat-proof!!).

A halfway house between an aquarium and a wire cage is the Fer-Plast Duna,
a large (approx. 2.5' x 19" x 23") plastic tank with a sliding wire top.
While the Duna offers limited climbing opportunities and has unsatisfactory
ventilation, it is extremely easy to clean (it can be taken apart).
Fer-Plast do a whole series of cages similar to the Duna, some of which
have raised wire portions on top which could
provide some climbing opportunities and improved air circulation. While the
Duna is super as a nursery for baby rats as it is secure and drought-proof,
it should only be used for adults when there are no other feasible options
(the Savic Rody is a similar cage). In addition to a cage, your rats will
need a nest box. This is a place to hide or sleep in which allows the rats
to feel secure. A nest box can be improvised from a small empty cardboard
box, a large clean empty jar, or a small bucket with a hole cut in the
side.

Rat Toys
Baby rats enjoy playing with toys and each other, whilst adult rats tend to
use toys for sleeping in or on and reserve their play for humans or other
rats. All sorts of objects can be useful for both purposes - some ideas are
lengths of plastic drainpipe, large drainpipe connectors, lengths of wide
drainage pipe, large glass jars, cardboard boxes, and old clothes. Small
toys intended for hamsters or gerbils are good for baby rats. Some rats
will run on wheels, but usually they are not interested in them -- probably
because they are too intelligent. Wheels with spokes are very dangerous for
rats -- legs, tails, or even heads can be damaged in them as one tries to
jump on while another is running. Toys intended for ferrets are generally
safe and suitable for rats, if you can find them.

Litter and Bedding
Wood shavings are the most commonly available litter sold to line the
bottom of small animals cages. Unfortunately wood shavings are not an ideal
litter for rats as they give off essential oils and can be very dusty. As
both aromatic oils and dust can irritate rats' respiratory tracts, shavings
are especially unsuitable for rats prone to respiratory infections. The
worst culprit is red cedar shavings which
are only now being introduced to the UK as a deodorising bedding.
Scientific research suggests that the aromatic oils in cedar bedding can
cause serious health problems such as damage to the liver
and consequently, to the immune system of animals kept on it. While pine
and spruce shavings do not carry the same degree of risk, there is at least
anecdotal evidence that their long-term use causes similar
health problems, and for this reason they are probably best avoided. Health
problems such as those discussed above can only be diagnosed in a
post-mortem examination. While it is unlikely that you
will notice any dramatic change in the health of your pet as a result of
changing cage litters, it is wisest to use a litter that presents few or no
potential health problems to your pets. By avoiding shavings
altogether, it is possible that your rats could live longer and suffer
fewer illnesses.

Unfortunately there are not many alternatives to wood shavings in the UK at
the moment, but there are two products that are worth keeping an eye out
for:

Bio-Catolet (tm) -- pellets of recycled paper. Sterile and dust-free, this
litter is many times more absorbent than wood-shavings, and is much better
at controlling odour. Although on a Kg to Kg. basis it is more expensive
than wood shavings, Bio-Catolet is far more efficient:you use much less and
change it less often than wood (for example, once rather than twice weekly
for an average-sized cage containing two females). Because of its
efficiency Bio-Catolet is good value for money. It can be found in large
branches of ASDA, Sainsburys, and Tescos nationwide, or telephone the
distributor Jenks at (01492) 442446 to find your nearest stockist.

CareFRESH (tm)-- currently being imported from the US, and made of recycled
non-aromatic wood pulp. Dust- free and sanitised, it has good green
credentials but is less absorbent and odour-eating than
Bio-Catolet. Some (human) users have complained that they don't like the
smell, others rave about how mess-free it is. Phone Absorption Europe at
0171-272-7720.

In a pinch, shredded paper-towels can be a safe stop-gap until you buy more
litter. Normal cat litter -- even the dust-free kind -- is not appropriate
for rats: the dust and clay can be hazardous to their
health. Because the ink in newsprint can be toxic and paper quickly becomes
very smelly, newspaper is not a suitable bedding. Straw is not recommended
as a bedding as it can harbour mites, does little to
absorb liquid or eliminate odour, and has been known to puncture rats'
eyes.

Food
Like people, rats are omnivores and fare best on fresh wholesome foods:
brown rice, vegetables, grains (wheat, barley, oats, millet),whole meal
bread, etc. and some animal protein. High protein puppy
food is useful as a supplement to help build up young rats (up to 10-12
weeks), and normal to low protein dry dog food is a good component of a
healthy diet. Ideally, an adult rat should be fed some
whole-grains, some vegetables, and some protein (lean meat scraps, dog food
or meal worms) every day. This can be supplemented with a bowl of 'rodent
mix' as a snack food. Debbie Ducommon of the Rat Fan Club has devised an
excellent recipe for rat health food that appears to boost immune reaction
and general health, see the Rat Fan Club (below) for details.

While such home-made nutritionally complete diets are ideal and are
strongly recommended, it is also possible to give your rat a well-balanced
diet using pet-shop mixes as a base. Reggie Rat made by
Supreme Pet Foods is specially formulated with the nutritional needs of
rats in mind. In theory it is a complete food, but your rats will always
appreciate healthy fresh snacks as treats. As it is quite high
in fat and protein, Reggie Rat is not recommended for rats that put on
weight easily. A less rich option is a good quality rabbit food like
Burgess Super Rabbit supplemented with fresh vegetables, some animal
protein (mealworms, lean meat or dog biscuit), and the odd cooked meat bone
(chicken bones are fine -- the rats just crunch them up) or natural yoghurt
to provide extra calcium.

The following foods can be used as treats / supplements to the regular
diet: fruit (apples, cherries, grapes, banana etc.), vegetables (broccoli,
potatoes, peas, carrot etc.), cooked liver, kidney, or
other low-fat meat, cooked bones, cooked pulses (cooked Soya protein may
reduce the risk of cancer), live yoghurt, sunflower seeds (an exceptional
source of B vitamins!), wholemeal pasta and bread, brown rice, unsweetened
breakfast cereals, and the occasional capsule of cod-liver or garlic oil.
Table scraps will be eaten with relish, but try to avoid feeding fatty or
sugary scraps. Carbonated drinks should never be given to rats as they
cannot burp, and the build-up of gasses in the stomach from fizzy drinks
could be fatal. Bear in mind that dietary fat has been linked to tumours in
rats, and keep fatty foods like peanuts and sunflower seeds as treats.

There is conflicting evidence about whether maize (sweetcorn) is suitable
for rat's diets: some laboratory studies claim that maize causes increased
levels of certain enzymes in rats (and humans!) that may encourage the
formation of cancerous tumours. Other scientific studies have been unable
to prove any relationship between maize and cancer. As such, this is a
decision probably best left to each
individual owner. A good way of letting your rats enjoy sweetcorn without
gorging themselves on it is to give them the remains of a cooked corncob
from which you have already removed the kernels.

Fresh water should be available at all times, preferably in a gravity
(ball-valve) bottle which will keep the water clean. Water should be
changed daily, and the bottle should be scrubbed out once a week. If
using a plastic bottle, it is a good idea to replace it every few months,
to prevent excessive bacteria build-up. Vitamin supplements should be added
to food rather than to drinking water -- vitamins make
the water taste horrible, and may discourage your rats from drinking. In
any case, rats fed a healthy, well-balanced diet should not need to have
vitamin supplements.

Grooming
Rats are extremely clean creatures, and spend almost a third of their
waking life grooming. As such, it is rarely necessary to bathe rats, with
the exception of light-coated varieties which may need the
occasional 'stain-removal' session if you wish to show them. If you decide
that your rat needs bathing, make sure that you use a shampoo formulated
for animals -- a kitten or puppy shampoo is best -- as
human shampoo can irritate their skin. Some rats do not clean their tails
thoroughly and can develop dark stains or patches on their tails. If you
wish to clean your rat's tail you should do so with an
old, soft toothbrush and either a gentle soap / animal shampoo, or
bicarbonate of soda. Wet the tail and apply the soap/shampoo / soda. Very
gently stroke the rat's tail with the dampened toothbrush, always
brushing away from the body towards the tip of the tail. Do not brush your
rat's tail roughly as this can damage or even remove the delicate skin on
the tail, and can be very painful for your pet.

Some rat owners like to have their pets' nails trimmed regularly. This can
be quite difficult and for the first time I would advise you to visit a vet
or experienced rat owner -- a show can be a great
opportunity for this -- and have them show you how to do it. Styptic powder
(anti-bleeding) is a useful thing to keep on hand if you intend to cut your
rats' nails as accidentally nicking the vein inside the
nail can cause serious blood loss. Putting a large (cleaned) stone in your
rats cage for them to climb on can also wear down their nails. Changing the
bedding (tissues, kitchen towel, etc.) in your rats' cage daily will
prevent them from becoming too smelly. It is also a good idea to give your
rats a bowl of water every now and again so that they can wash themselves.

Health Matters
The full range of health problems that your rat may encounter during its
lifetime clearly can not be addressed in a leaflet of this length, and what
follows should by no means be considered a substitute for
veterinary care. A good veterinarian who is experienced in dealing with
rats is invaluable, and it is a good idea to find one before a potential
problem arises. The Heron Veterinary surgery in Mordon, South London (0181)
640-2064 and Jill Pearson at Grieve and Associates in Cambridge (01223)
249331 both come highly recommended by the authors. The National Fancy Rat
Society (see details below) also keeps a register of recommended vets all
over the country. Veterinary care for rats need not be expensive -- I have
been charged between £ 6-8 per visit at various clinics, and often two
rats can be included in the cost of one consultation.

Any surgical operation carries a risk that the animal will not survive the
anaesthetic, but modern inhalant anaesthetics are far safer than the
older-style injectables. In particular try to find a vet who uses
Isoflurane anaesthetic -- it is very safe for small mammals, complications
are extremely rare, and they recover quickly from it. After an operation,
rats often try to remove their stitches and you can stop this by applying
Johnson's Anti-Peck (sold to stop caged birds pecking themselves or others)
or Bitter Bite (a repellent product similar to bitter apple, but more
effective and marketed for dogs and cats) over and around the wound.

If one of your rats appears to be unwell, a vet should be consulted as
soon as possible: although rats are hardy little creatures, they can go
into decline very quickly, and by putting off seeing a vet you may
be greatly minimising their chances of survival.

A few common symptoms of rat-ailments are:

Red Discharge Around the Eyes and/or Nose: Not an ailment in itself, but a
symptom of distress. Rats' mucus is stained red with a pigment called
porphyrin (indeed, the mucus is commonly referred to as porphyrin). This
discharge may be present if your rat is ill or simply stressed (as, for
example, from moving house). Observe the animal carefully, and if it
appears unwell or if the discharge continues for
more than a few days, consult a vet. General Signs of Illness: the animal
is hunched up, lethargic, coat staring (fluffed up and messy), uninterested
in food or attention. Eyes may be half closed and
breathing may appear laboured. If your rat shows these symptoms or others
that worry you, consult a vet.

Head-weaving: is often seen in rats with pink or red eyes. The rat will
usually stand still and weave its head from side to side for a while. This
is perfectly normal; all rats are short-sighted (although
they can sense movement from some distance, they can only focus for a few
feet), but any animal with pink or red eyes has worse eyesight than those
with dark eyes. Moving the head from side to side helps the rat to judge
distances and the depth of objects by making them appear to move. This
should not be considered a fault or problem - rats sense smells, sounds and
movement (by feeling vibrations on the floor) much more than humans, and
can cope perfectly well with limited eyesight. Note that there is a
different, unrelated condition called head tilt or wry-neck, where the rat
holds its head on one side
permanently. This is caused by a inner-ear infection and needs veterinary
treatment.

Sneezing/Wheezing/Noisy Breathing: Often the sign of a respiratory
infection. Virtually all pet rats are infected with an organism called
mycoplasma bacillus which is a primary infection that inhabits
their respiratory system. Many rats can carry mycoplasma without appearing
to suffer any illness, while others are not able to carry the infection
unharmed. These rats will usually start to sneeze as
young adults; they then develop some damage to the respiratory tract
(lungs, windpipe, etc.) which makes it easier for bacteria to enter and
cause an infection. This is usually what has happened when a rat starts to
wheeze, and if a great deal of damage is caused to the respiratory tract,
the rat may develop emphysema, bronchitis, pneumonia and lung abscesses.
Although sneezing is not necessarily a
sign of serious illness (most rats sneeze at some point in their lives), a
rat that sneezes frequently and for an extended period should be observed
for any other signs of illness. If your rat's breathing appears laboured,
wheezy, or has a rattley sound, consult a vet immediately. When treated
early secondary respiratory infections can often be kept at bay with a
strong course of antibiotics (see antibiotic therapy below). While
sneezing or snuffling may be the result of the irritation of the
respiratory tract from dust and phenol oils if the rat is kept on shavings,
it is most likely that a rat that shows signs of respiratory
distress is suffering from a secondary infection in the upper respiratory
tract. Bacterial infections in the upper respiratory tract often sound far
more serious that they are, and if the affected animal is treated with
liquid echinacea in honey-flavoured water (to disguise the taste of the
echinacea tincture), the infection may be cleared without the use of
antibiotics. A pro-biotic supplement (such as Entrodex from Vydex Animal
Health -- see below) can give an immense boost to the immune system, and
can occasionally even clear infections. Unlike echinacea, pro-biotic
supplements can be given for extended periods of time without any negative
consequences and without the rat developing a tolerance to the product.
Live yoghurt (containing beneficial bacterial cultures) is also a useful
supplement; however the cultures that it contains are largely destroyed by
intestinal juices before they are able to have any
noticeable effect. For this reason, specialised pro-biotic products like
Entrodex which specifically target the intestine and are able to withstand
gastric acidity for long enough to colonise the gut and
multiply, are more effective, and as such, more highly recommended.

Tumours: Some rats develop tumours as they get older. Female rats are more
likely to develop tumours than males, and rats fed on a high-fat diet are
also more at risk. The most common form are benign mammary tumours, which
start off as a small, pea-like lump usually in the rats' groin or armpit,
or along her side, and grow steadily. They do not usually cause any
distress until they either seriously impede the rat's movement or start to
ulcerate and become sore, or outgrow their blood supply. If your rat
develops a tumour then you can decide either to have it surgically removed
or to have her put to sleep when she becomes unhappy. You do not need to
put her to sleep as soon as a tumour appears - she may have many months of
happy life ahead of her before it starts to hurt, and as the rat's owner
you will be the best person to decide when she is no longer enjoying life.
If you decide to have the tumour removed and it is benign, the operation is
relatively simple and need not be stressful for the rat if she is otherwise
healthy. Tumour removal usually costs around £30 (1996 prices) and, again,
it is helpful to find a vet with experience in this area. However, bear in
mind that a rat who is prone to tumours may
well develop others after a first tumour is removed. This does not mean
that it is not worth having the operation done - the rat could well gain at
least an extra 3 or 4 months of life, which is comparable
to 6-8 years for a human - but you need to take into account her overall
health and your vet's opinion as to whether the tumour can be operated on.

Skin Irritation: Usually paired with excessive scratching. Although it is
possible that your rat has contracted mites, it is far more likely that it
is scratching scabs caused by a dietary problem such as an
intolerance to certain types of protein, or an adverse reaction to
artificial additives in processed pet food. Before treating for mites
(unless they are clearly visible), remove the majority of protein
sources from your rat's diet (peanuts, sunflower seeds, and dog food that
is too high in protein are common culprits), clip the back toenails, and
treat the existing skin abrasions or scabs with an antiseptic ointment.
Certain brands of dog food, and the brightly coloured biscuit often found
in rodent mix are the usual causes of adverse reactions to artificial
additives. Not all rats will react the same way to the same foods, and a
useful way to eliminate this problem is to change all of your rats' diet to
a home- made fresh diet, that contains no chemical additives. After 10 days
of an altered diet (either very low protein or preservative free), all
signs of irritation and scratching should have disappeared; if they remain,
contact your vet to consider other options.

Antibiotic Therapy: While antibiotics can be a useful tool to fight
bacterial infection in rats, they should never be used without the
instruction of a veterinarian. Microbiologists and veterinarians who
specialise in ratcare have noted more frequent and severe outbreaks of
bacterial infections among pet rats in recent years. Over-use of
antibiotics in animal medicine is thought to have contributed greatly to
the cases of antibiotic-resistant bacteria now in evidence. Every time an
antibiotic is used there is a risk that it will encourage the emergence of
antibiotic-resistant bacteria, which threatens humans and animals
worldwide. Another disadvantage of using antibiotics is that there is
evidence suggesting that, in the long run, they harm the health of the
patient. This is partly because antibiotics destroy bacteria that live in
the animal's gut, and which help make some vitamins and minerals which the
body needs. It is therefore a good idea to feed some sort of pro-biotic
supplement during and after a course of antibiotics. If you do decide to
use antibiotics they should be given only when prescribed by a vet who has
examined the animal. A rat which shows a tendency to succumb to infection
should never be
bred from, as the tendency towards respiratory illness appears to be partly
hereditary, and it is likely that offspring and resulting generations will
have weakened immune systems. It is important to
obtain rats from breeders who have been selecting for healthy animals; a
persistent sneezer, or a rat which wheezes, should not be bred from.

If antibiotics must be used, it is important that the entire course is used
up, otherwise the malignant organism being treated is likely to return in a
stronger, antibiotic-resistant form. Experts vary in
their opinion of the best way to administer antibiotics; some believe that
they should be given for at least a week after all symptoms disappear.
Others, worried about the damage that antibiotics can do to
the natural bacterial balance in a rat's body suggest a cycle of ten days
on the medicine followed by a rest period of five days off to be repeated
two or three times, with the rat fed live yoghurt and / or
pro-biotic supplements during the five days 'off' to replenish gut flora
and minimise damage to the immune system. In some cases of respiratory
disease, your vet may advise two courses of different
antibiotics -- one following the other -- to combat the primary and
secondary infections respectively.

A pro-biotic supplement can also be used to boost a rat's immunity when it
is run-down, unwell, or stressed (as from traveling), and may help prevent
serious illnesses. Rats can be given a pro-biotic
supplement throughout their lives without it doing them any harm. Entrodex
manufactured by the Vydex Animal Corporation Health (01222) 578220 also
contains vitamins and electrolytes: it can be
added to the drinking water one or two days a week for healthy animals, or
every day for ailing or elderly rats.

Echinacea is a herb that appears to boost immune response in many species
including humans and rats. A few drops of echinacea tincture (available at
most health shops, but cheapest at Neal's Yard Remedies in London - can be
ordered by post) can be added to the drinking water of sick rats; a few
drops of honey can be added too disguise the taste. As the body quickly
develops a tolerance for echinacea, it is not recommended that you use it
for more than three weeks at a time. Alternatively, you can give it to the
sick animal for one week out of four.

Obesity: Fat Rats. One of the best ways that you can insure that your rats
lead long healthy lives is to make sure that they do not get fat. Fat rats
live shorter lives, are prone to tumours, are more susceptible to
infection, and less likely to recover from surgery. Does should be sleek
and lean, and bucks muscular; neither should feel soft and squashy nor
should they feel bony. Like people, rats often enjoy foods that are bad for
them, and like children, rats will usually choose fatty or sweet foods over
healthy ones. It is up to you to make sure that your rats eat healthily,
and you may find it better to save treats for hand-feeding after your rats
have eaten their healthy food. A healthy balanced diet, regular exercise
(at least an hour outside the cage every day), and large, clean living
conditions will insure that your rats' lives are lived to the fullest.

In hot weather it is important to protect rats from heat exhaustion and
dehydration. rats regulate their temperature mainly through the tail and
foot-pads, so if you provide a bowl of cold water a hot rat
can cool herself down by paddling in it. A fan placed near to the cage will
provide a cooling breeze. You can also give your rats frozen vegetables
(e.g. peas) as ice-lollies, and ice cubes can be added to
their water-dish. Make sure that the cage is not in direct sunlight in hot
weather.

Breeding
Rats should be kept in single-sex groups; if you keep un-neutered males and
females together, they will produce a litter of 8-18 babies every 3-4 weeks
for at least a year, leaving the mother exhausted and
the babies undernourished. Baby rats become fertile after 5 weeks of age,
so males and females must be kept separate after this time. Where a mating
is planned, it is easier to reintroduce the male to his male cage-mates if
he is only allowed to stay with the female for a short time - he can be
left with her for an evening when she is in heat, or perhaps overnight. A
pregnant doe can be left with her (female)
cagemates until a day or so before she is due to give birth. It is not
recommended that you leave a male and female together after mating.
Although male rats make good fathers, a buck that has lived
with a female for any length of time is almost impossible to reintroduce to
his male companions. Furthermore, does go into heat -- the post partum
estrus -- within hours of giving birth. If you leave
the male rat in with the mother she will undoubtedly get pregnant
immediately after giving birth and her health and that of her offspring
will be greatly compromised as she tries to suckle one liter
while another grows in her belly. Before breeding from your rats, please
consider carefully whether you will be able to find suitable homes for a
large litter. Pet shops will not always be able to take
unwanted babies off your hands, and if you are at all concerned for the
welfare of your baby rats then you should only offer them to a pet shop if
it has an excellent reputation and the staff are knowledgeable. Be warned
that many pet shops sell rats as feeders for snakes - but the best will
only sell them as pets.

If you do decide to breed, we strongly recommend reading the chapters on
breeding and rearing rats in Nick Mays' The Proper Care of Fancy Rats, and
if possible contacting the breeder of your own rats for
advice. It is a basic requirement that both parents are friendly and
healthy -- there are large hereditary aspects to the temperament and
functioning of the immune system, so rats which are aggressive or
sickly are likely to produce babies which share these characteristics. The
female should be at least 4 months old so that she has had time to mature.
If a female has not bred a litter by the age of 8 months then there is a
risk that she will have difficulty giving birth, but if she has produced a
litter before this age then she may be bred from until she is around a year
old, providing that she is healthy and in good condition. The mother must
be left with her kittens until they are fully weaned at 4-5 weeks, but they
will not be ready to go to new homes until about a week after weaning (in
order for the breeder to make sure that the babies are well handled,
healthy, and of good temperament). To preserve the health and
condition of the mother she must be allowed a rest of at least a couple of
weeks after weaning one litter of kittens before she is mated to produce
another.

Books About Rats
Although there are several books about rats in print at the moment, none
provides a satisfactory all-round guide to keeping rats as pets, and
several are desperately inaccurate. The best of those currently
available is The Proper Care Of Fancy Rats by Nick Mays (TFH, ISBN
0-86622-933-X) which has descriptions of the various types of rat within
the British rat fancy, and scores of colour photographs. The 'Health'
section should be given a miss, however, as it is somewhat outdated. Rats -
a complete pet owner's manual by Carol Himsel, published by Barron's, is
better on health but poor on husbandry / pet
care.

The National Fancy Rat Society Handbook is worth owning -- it contains some
basic information about health, colour and coat types, genetics etc. A new
edition is currently in preparation. In the meanwhile,
copies of the old edition can be obtained from the NFRS (£3.50 NFRS
members, £4.50 others).

The Rat Health Care booklet written by Debbie Ducommon of the US-based "Rat
Fan Club" (see below) is a useful guide for rat-owners. The booklet
discusses many aspects of rat care ranging from diet and housing to
medication and grooming. Although by no means the last word on rat health
care, the Rat Health Care booklet is an invaluable resource and is highly
recommended. Be aware however, that this is an American publication and
many things that it takes for granted are considered highly undesirable in
the UK: for example, 'freak' strains of rats promoted in the USA such as
hairless, tailless, and "Dumbo" that often suffer from severe health
problems; the prophylactic use of antibiotics; and the spaying of female
rats which is a high-risk invasive operation with more risks than benefits
to the animal. Cultural differences aside, this booklet contains immense
amounts of valuable information that cannot (yet) be found in other
publications. The NFRS has imported some copies, which can be bought
for around £4 , or you can contact Debbie Ducommon at the address below.

Other Places to Find Information about Rats:

There is a wealth of rat-related information on the internet. The best way
to find WWW pages containing ratty information is to use a search-engine
(like 'Yahoo' or 'Infoseek') and type in the word "rat" or "rats". The Rat
and Mouse Club of America's home page (http://www.rmca.org) has links to
dozens of other rat pages, so might be a good place to begin a search.

The Rats Mailing List is an e-mail discussion group that provides a forum
for the members of the list to discuss all manner of thing pertaining to
rat care and ownership. Although some serious matters
about health and husbandry are discussed, the majority of the 30-50 daily
postings that you will receive from the list if you subscribe, will be
anecdotal stories about 'cute' or amusing things that members
of the list's pet rats have done. The Rats List is great for those who
enjoy chatting about the joys of rat ownership. To subscribe send an e-mail
(with the subject line blank) to rats-requests@lists.best.com
with the message body containing the word "info" on one line and "end" on
the next. You will then be sent a message containing information on how to
subscribe and list protocol. rec.pets and alt.pets.rodents on usenet are
two newsgroups that have a lot of rat-related postings.

A caution regarding internet/e-mail/usenet rat-related sources: Although
many interesting and informative discussions take place on the internet,
bear in mind that you shouldn't believe everything you read, and that
although some of the posters may have a lot of knowledge and experience,
many of the 'experts' are pet owners with limited experience. While you may
learn a lot from such resources, it
is best not to rely on information gained from newsgroups, mailing lists or
other internet sources unless you are certain that the author is
knowledgeable and trustworthy. If in doubt, contact your vet, the
National Fancy Rat Society, or an experienced rat-owner/breeder with your
query.

Rat Clubs
It is hard to find accurate information about rat care and health because
rats have only become popular pets in recent years. Joining a club or
society is the best way to find out how to care for your rats,
and to keep up to date with the latest developments in rat husbandry. Clubs
can also help you get the most out of your pet rats by giving advice on
socialising them and so on. The following are
highly recommended:

The National Fancy Rat Society (NFRS) can be a great help to both the pet
owner and those who are interested in showing or breeding rats. It runs
regular shows throughout the country, has a bi-monthly journal (Pro-Rat-A)
which gives down-to-earth, reliable advice on pet care, and experts in the
Society are available to help with any queries that you might have. For
membership details send an SAE to the Membership Co-ordinator (address
below). The NFRS also runs a kitten register (for finding or selling
rat-kittens) and has a register of recommended rat-friendly vets.

The Rat Fan Club is an American organisation dedicated to the care of pet
rats. It has several members in the UK (you can pay by credit-card) .
Every monthly Rat Report newsletter features games to play with your rats,
toys to make for them, and tricks to teach them. Attitudes towards other
aspects of animal care can differ significantly from those in the UK, but
the Rat Report is still highly
informative.

Some other clubs include the Rat and Mouse Club of America which publishes
a bi-monthly glossy magazine, the Rat and Mouse Gazette; and the London and
Southern Counties Mouse and Rat Club which holds a Rat and Mouse show on
the first Saturday of most months at the Fourth Enfield Scout HQ, Gordon
Road, Enfield, London (nearest BR Station: Enfield Town).

The National Fancy Rat Society
Membership Co-ordinator
14 Clayhall House, Somers Close
Reigate Surrey RH2 9EB

London and Southern Counties Mouse and Rat Club
Albert Collins
29 Stortford Road, Hoddesdon
Herts. EN11 0AH
(for show details; ordinarily you can join the club on the day of a show)

The Rat Fan Club
857 Lindo Lane
Chico, CA 95973
USA
e-mail: ratlady@pinsight.com

Rat and Mouse Club of America
13075 Springdale Street #302
Westminster CA 92683 USA
e-mail: RMCA1@aol.com

Leaflet (C) A. Swierzy & A. Horn 1996
antonia.swierzy@bbc.co.uk
udty075@kcl.ac.uk

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